Whatever brought you here, we find the actual problem. No parts cannon. No fix, no charge on diagnostics.
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Bought Parts? We'll Wire Them.
LEDs, USB charger, fender eliminator — bring the parts. We install them right.
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Dies After 30 Minutes?
Charging system fault. We test each part. You buy only what's bad.
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Electrical Gremlin?
Flickering lights, random cutouts, dead battery. We trace it.
LED turn signals. USB charger. Fender eliminator. Accent lights. They've been sitting in a box because the wiring intimidates you. Smart. One wrong connection can burn a wiring harness — that's a few hundred dollars you didn't plan on. Bring the parts with the bike. We'll mount them, wire them correctly, and make sure everything works without taking out your fuses.
Here's how it goes. You're riding. The bike sputters and dies. You get a jump or charge the battery. It fires up and runs — for another 30 minutes. Then dead again. You go online. The forums say stator. Or regulator/rectifier. Or battery. So you buy all three. That's $300–$600 in parts, and two of them were probably fine. We test the stator output, the regulator/rectifier function, and the battery condition individually. We tell you exactly which part is bad. You buy one part instead of three. The math works.
Flickering headlight. Random cutouts. Battery dead after two days of sitting. Electrical problems lie — one symptom can have five causes. We trace the fault properly and fix what's actually wrong. If we can't find it, you don't pay.
The Internet Approach
$300–$600 in Parts
Buy stator, R/R, and battery. Hope one fixes it.
Our Approach
Diagnose First. Buy One Part.
We test each component. You buy only what's bad.
No fix, no charge on diagnostics. For accessory installs, we quote upfront. You know the price before we touch anything.
Book Electrical ServiceFlasher relay, resistors, wiring. No hyperflash. No error codes.
Wired to switched power. No dead battery. No exposed connections.
Mount and wire tail light, plate light, signals. Clean install.
Switch, relay, proper gauge wire. No electrical tape nightmares.
AC output test. Continuity to ground. Know if it's actually bad.
Charging voltage at idle and RPM. Diode test. One part or the other.
Classic charging system failure. Your battery starts the bike, but the charging system isn't replenishing it. As you ride, voltage drops until the bike dies. Could be the stator, regulator/rectifier, or a bad connection. We test each component and tell you which one needs replacing — so you don't buy all three.
Yes. Before you install anything — or return the parts you don't need — bring the bike in. We'll test the stator output, the R/R function, and the battery condition. You'll know exactly what to replace. Most of the time, only one component has failed.
Yes. Bring the parts and the bike. We'll handle the wiring, add resistors if needed, and make sure they work properly — no hyperflash, no error codes, no blown fuses.
Best case: a blown fuse. Worst case: a burnt wiring harness. A short can melt wires deep inside the loom — tracing and repairing that is far more expensive than paying for a proper install up front.
Depends on the parts and the bike. A simple LED signal swap is quick. A full fender eliminator with integrated tail light takes more time. We quote upfront — you'll know the price before we start.
Amazon parts waiting to be installed? Charging system leaving you stranded? Electrical gremlin you can't find? Bring it in. We wire it right, diagnose the fault, and never sell you a part you don't need.